We started with the basics: suspension and wheels/tires. Weld Racing stepped in to help us out with its new line of forged dualie wheels. With a load rating of 3,500 pounds on a 37-inch-tall tire, these wheels will last the life of the truck and look good doing it. Keeping traction with the road mile after mile is Continental’s latest commercial tire, the HSR1. This combo should last 100,000 miles with proper rotation and inflation. To help us clear the new, larger wheels and tires, we added a 2-inch leveling kit with new shocks from Daystar. Easy to install, the leveling kit will give us the extra room needed, without negatively affecting the ride quality or tow rating. To bring down the extra mass, we installed a set of Orange Stuff brake pads from EBC Brakes. With more pad swept contact area, the thicker EBC pads will help reduce heat, shorten stopping distances, and wear more evenly than the factory brakes.
Before: When we began the day, our ’10 Ford F-350 dualie was 100 percent stock. The tires were worn down and needed replacing, which provided us with the perfect opportunity to improve all aspects of the truck.
1. LED lighting is an integral part of safety, and we wanted to replace the old incandescent housing with new high-tech lighting from Spyder Auto. Using an 8mm socket, both taillight retaining screws were removed.
2. The new Spyder Auto light (left, $222.95 from autoanything.com) is full of super-bright LED lights, whereas the factory light used a single bulb.
3. Installation couldn’t have been any easier. We simply unplugged the factory bulb harnesses and plugged the new Spyder pigtails into them.
4. Once the brake pedal was applied, the LEDs shone brightly and will help everyone see us slowing down.
5. Up front, the four factory headlight retaining bolts were removed. For the record, there is one up top, two on the side, and one hiding underneath.
6. To wire up the Spyder halo rings and LED lights ($360.95 from autoanything.com), we needed to tap into the running lights. It’s important to not splice into the turn signal light, or your halo rings will flash every time your blinker is engaged. Using a Power Probe Screamer, we easily found the proper wire to tap into. In this F-350’s case, it was the purple wire with the white stripe.
7. The Spyder lights do not come with wire taps. We had to make a trip to the parts store to buy these inline taps. Once the positive and negative wires from the halos and LEDs were separately spliced together, we could tap into the factory wiring.
8. As you can see, the before and after lighting was dramatically different.
9. The Royalty Core grille is a full replacement, meaning it does not just lay over the factory plastic. This style is ideal, as you will not see the ugly plastic crossbars peering from behind the black stainless mesh. Using an air saw, the plastic grille inserts were cut out.
10. Once the centersection was properly cut, it was pulled free.
11. Featuring solid stainless steel construction, the new Royalty Core grille is one of the beefiest, sturdiest, and most well-built grilles we’ve installed ($1,267.00). The mesh is rock-solid and the sword emblem is different than the usual marketing logo. Simply put, it’s badass.
12. Using an angle drill, a 3⁄16-inch drill bit was needed to drill a hole into the factory plastic for each mounting tab.
13. Screws, washers, and retaining fasteners (which were all included in the kit) were used to secure the grille to the plastic surround.
14. With the unique three-piece design of the ’08 to ’10 Super Duty grilles, Royalty Core included the inserts for the side panels as well. The same installation method was performed on each of these.
15. To say the front end was upgraded would be a huge understatement. The Spyder Auto halo/LED lights and Royalty Core mesh grille add an aggressive, menacing look to our 2010 Ford F-350.